How to change the strings on an acoustic guitar? Installation (replacement) of strings on an acoustic guitar How to properly tension the strings on a guitar

In general, I have often seen complaints from guitarists that their guitars are quickly detuned and do not hold.

Many sin on their inexpensive guitars and cheap fittings, not even suspecting that the guitar does not keep the system, by no means, not because of the fittings.

It's all about getting your guitar strings right!

Replacing strings on a guitar is a trivial process only at first glance, but there are some tricks here.

At the very least, learning how to put or change guitar strings correctly can make your life a lot easier.

Step 1:
Once you've secured the , bring it up to the headstock and thread it through the hole in the peg.



Step 2:
Leave a small margin of string to wind around the peg and pull the string lightly towards the headstock. Try not to pull the string back and forth - it can bend and break.


Step 3:
Bend the end of the string towards the center of the headstock, and pass it under the string.


Step 4:
While holding the tension on the string, wrap the strings around you, making a kind of "lock". Try to keep the string in a taut position, this will prevent the string from deforming and help it to be set correctly.


Step 5:
Keeping the string under tension, start turning the peg. The string should clamp itself. The string should be wound down the tuner shaft to increase its angle of inclination relative to the nut.
Final result:


Here is such a "lock" allows you to ensure that the guitar will be out of tune much less.

So now you know how to change guitar strings correctly. =)

UPD: Well, visual videos:

Video: How to change strings on an electric guitar
Video: How to change the strings on an acoustic guitar
Video: How to change the strings on a classical guitar

Additions, corrections, comments are welcome. Friends, write in comments.

The principle of fastening the strings on the shaft of the peg mechanics is similar to fastening on a stand - the string must be clamped by a tightening loop. The harder the strings are pulled, the stronger the loop holds. Of course, the turns around the shaft are also of great importance, since this is all the friction force that additionally holds the string.

There is nothing special to write about the dismantling of old strings - they unscrewed it, pulled it out and threw it away. To rotate the peg mechanics, it is very convenient to use special twisters that you can buy, or you can make yourself from ebony, amaranth, Indian rosewood and mahogany.

Unfortunately, the mother-of-pearl button at the end of the handle is not visible. Changing guitar strings with such a twist is a pleasure.

String setting order into the guitar pegs is not of fundamental importance, but it is more convenient to start from the 1st and 6th strings, moving in order, then the already tucked strings will not interfere with setting the next ones. In other words, the string order is: 1st, 2nd, 3rd and also 6th, 5th, 4th.

A few more tips before we get straight into how to thread strings:


Attaching the string to the pegs, forming a knot

Keep the string slightly under tension so that the knot on the bridge does not unravel. The string is threaded once or twice (for the fifth and sixth, one time is definitely enough). It is not necessary to wind too much string on the shaft so that the turns are piled on top of each other.

Now wrap the free end around the string and start winding. The string should begin to wind along with its tail. Enough a couple of overlaps. Remember to stretch the string with your hand until it stretches on its own.

After the tail has been crossed several times, take it to the side opposite to the direction of winding and lay the turns of the string neatly one after the other.

Changing stringsOn guitar is an important and necessary procedure that every guitarist should learn. Sooner or later in his practice there comes a moment when the string breaks, or ceases to sound due to excessive contamination. This is exactly the signal to install a new kit. The process is quite simple in itself, but it will take time to learn it perfectly. The most important thing is to do everything carefully and not to rush.

First of all, it is worth remembering a few simple rules that do not even relate to the process itself, but to the general care of the instrument. So:

  1. Most importantly, always change strings in sets. The fact is that they are selected specifically for tension - it is balanced, and the entire thickness evenly pulls the neck. If one string breaks on your guitar, and you install not the entire set on it, but only the missing one, then the force ceases to be uniform, and because of this, for example, it may start .
  2. Don't stretch the strings initially, and only start tuning when all six are in place and slightly tightened. This will avoid situations where a new set is torn due to the fact that something was overtightened.
  3. For a more convenient process of removing the strings, purchase a special tuning machine rotator. It is sold in any music store for a small price. This will greatly simplify and speed up your actions.

How to remove strings from an acoustic guitar

The first and obvious step in replacing strings is to remove the old ones. This is done in a few very simple steps.

Loosen the old strings

Pull the string and start spinning the peg. If its sound rises higher, it means that it is stretched, and you should not rotate the fittings further. If it drops, then everything is correct - continue to rotate in this direction until the rings wound on the peg are loosened to such an extent that the string will simply hang out and it can be pulled out of the hole in the fittings. Do the same for each of the strings.

Remove pegs

The next step is to pull out the pegs that hold the strings underneath. A flat object can help you with this - for example, a strong ruler, or even an ordinary spoon. In addition, there is a special tool for this process. Do not try to pick them up with pliers - with a high probability the peg will break into two halves. Just grab it from below and use the lever to pull it out. This should be done only after the strings are as loose as possible - so be careful. Once all the pegs have been removed, stack them in one place and move on to the next step.

Removing old strings

Just pull the old strings out of the holes in the hardware and also out of the peg holes. Roll them up and put them aside - you can save them as a spare set just in case, or you can throw them in the trash.

Wipe down the guitar

After that, put the guitar in order - wipe it with a dry cloth. Remove any dirt on the fretboard. Also check his tension - is everything in order with him, remember if he did not get along before. If something like this happened, then it is at this stage that it happens by rotating the anchor. In general, just clean the instrument of dirt a little, and after that you can proceed directly to changing the strings.

Installing strings on an acoustic guitar

Unpacking the new kit

Remove the new kit from all packaging. Typically, the manufacturer packs the strings by their serial numbers, or, as D'Addario does, they paint the balls at the base of the string with their own colors, making the designations on the packaging itself. The strings are coiled - unfold them and straighten them. After that, place them in the holes of the pegs - the end with a small ring attached to the string should go there. After that, fasten the pegs until they stop. Just put the end without a ball on the headstock, to those pegs on which the winding should take place.

Winding strings. We start with the sixth

So, you can start changing the strings. Thread each of them through the hole in your peg. Start with the sixth. So, next, take the main part of the string and wrap it around the axis of the peg so that its tip is under the coil. After that, already make a couple of movements with the fittings themselves - so that the tip is fixed between the turns. It's not necessary to do this - the string will hold out quite well without a "knot", but this way you minimize the chance that it will fly out during the game. Tighten the string, holding it a little with your hand, but not completely - it should just be fixed in the nut and peg.

After that, repeat the same manipulations with the rest of the strings. In the case of the sixth, fifth and fourth strings, turn the peg clockwise, and vice versa, with the other three. In general, this is intuitive. Please note that if you did not pull the strings until the hammers hit the pegs, then this can happen without you, very abruptly, with a characteristic sound. Do not be alarmed - this is also normal, but it is better to pre-pull the kit all the way into the bottom mount.

We cut off the excess

After that, how to string stringswhen you're done, cut off the tips sticking out of the pins with tongs. This is done specifically so that they do not interfere with playing and tuning the instrument later.

Guitar tuning after installation

After the strings are conditionally stretched, proceed to . This will take a little longer as the strings will stretch in the process, but the tuner will help with that. Adjust only on it - in this case, hearing will not help. If you don't have it at hand, you can download the application forguitar settings for android or iOS.

Generally, then put the instrument down and let the strings settle on it. You may need to tune the instrument a couple more times, plus they will quickly get upset at first. However, after a while everything will fall into place, and the new set will sound with overtones and ringing.

How to change strings on a classical guitar

This process, in general, is not much different from the same on an acoustic guitar, but there are some nuances.

Take off the old strings

This works exactly the same as on an acoustic guitar - just loosen them on the pegs and pull them out through the bottom bridge. Please note that there are no pegs in this case - everything rests on small knots formed at one of the ends of the string. Also, the strings can be dismantled by simply cutting them with wire cutters. After that, also wipe down the guitar, and check its truss. If you found out , and did just that - then in general there should be no problems with it.

Installing new strings

In general, everything happens exactly the same as in the case of an acoustic guitar. The only caveat is to fasten the strings from below - for this you need to form a knot, and thread the rest of the string into it after it is in the hole at the bottom of the bridge. Understanding how to do this is very simple - just look at how it was originally fixed.
















Checklist for changing and installing new strings

  1. Loosen old strings with tuning pegs;
  2. Pull out the pegs;
  3. Remove old strings;
  4. Check the guitar - the condition of the neck and body, tighten the anchor;
  5. Wipe down the guitar;
  6. Place the end of the string with the hammer into the holes of the pegs, put them back, pull the string until the ball stops in the pegs;
  7. Stretch the strings;
  8. Tune your guitar.

The most important advice- take your time and do everything carefully and slowly. Also, after installation and tuning, let the guitar rest a little - the wood should take the form of string tension, the neck should fall into place. Do not overtighten the strings, but it is best to tighten them just a little before tuning. This is necessary so that the new set does not burst ahead of time.

Is it time to change the strings on your electric guitar? Well, let's figure out when they need to be changed, how to do it, what you need to understand before starting the replacement, how to rebuild the height, and which ones to choose. What tool will you need? What string fixing systems are there and what is the peculiarity of replacing on different “machines”? Let's talk about everything in order.

Signs of "tired" strings

First of all, you should understand that the strings are a consumable item that needs to be changed every 2-3 months with active play, and changed every six months if you use the guitar “by mood”. This is required, since they are “salted” or clogged with dirt, the winding coating is erased, in some cases they oxidize and rust. Accordingly, the sound at the same time also becomes less pleasant, deaf, in some cases the guitar ceases to keep the system, and begins to rattle.

Types of string holders

Before proceeding with the replacement, let's clarify which version of the bridge (string holder, typewriter) is installed on your electric guitar.

consider4 typesmounts:

  • Through the body (Tight-End, Gibraltar Standard bridge, Fixed bridge);
  • tremolo machine (vintage tremolo system, FAT-10 tremolo bridge);
  • two-sided machine (Floyd Rose, Edge-Zero, Edge tremolo bridge);
  • fixation on the deck (Stop Bar, Stop tail).

How well you change the strings on your electric guitar will determine their ability to keep in tune, and likely their lifespan.

A tool that will be useful

  • Nippers to cut the strings for easier removal, and cut off excess "tails";
  • a set of hexagons for detuning the neck and string height;
  • a metal ruler graduated from the beginning to adjust the height of the strings if they rattle or are set too high;
  • string winder. The thing is certainly not the main thing, but it will help you save time.

Before cutting the strings, be sure to loosen them! It is important! as the string may fly out and harm you. Follow safety measures, even though it seems like a trifling matter!

Withdrawal

In all types of tailpieces, we simply cut the strings at the nut (behind the first fret of the fretboard) holding it with our hand at the third fret so that they do not fly out and cause injury to you.

After that, we pull them out through special holes in the protective plastic (if you have a tremolo machine) or from the back of the case.


Floyd Rose system owners will need a hex wrench to loosen the clamps on the bridge. In some Zero Pro systems (analogous to Floyd Rose from Ibanez, such machines are often found on Cort guitars), the strings are clamped together with clamps (string tips that allow you to hold the string in the bridge, in which case you will have to unscrew the bolt holding the clip to the end). How to remove them read below.


Used strings are not applicable for reinstallation, but they can be useful in needlework or in everyday life.

Electric guitar preparation

After you have removed the strings, thread the bolt connections on the neck and body. Twist them securely, but without fanaticism. Also, carefully watch what to twist and what not. For example, you do not need to turn the height adjusters of the pickups, although they look like an ordinary bolt. You are also not recommended to turn the tremolo adjustment bolts of the machine.

The photo below shows that you can twist without harm


Lining impregnation

The next step is to soak the fretboard with lemon oil. This is required in order for the lining to serve you longer, to prevent drying out and cracking of the lining. If the neck is lacquered, you do not need to do this. Impregnation also favorably affects the sound of the guitar. Napkins soaked in lemon oil can be found in almost every musical instrument store. We recommend taking Ernie Ball napkins. There are 6 of them in one box. The cost is approximately 150 rubles or 2 USD.

After thoroughly saturating each fret of the neck, set the guitar aside for 40 minutes to allow the oil to soak in. What is not absorbed, wipe with a dry, clean cloth.

Lubrication of mechanisms and sills

Take some oil, ideally for sewing machines, but ordinary motor oil will also work. Drop by small drop, with a syringe, drip onto the saddles and onto the nut of the guitar neck. This will prevent the appearance of burrs and extend the life of the tool fittings. This is especially true for budget guitars, where all components are made of cheap materials. But do not fill with oil, this is not necessary.

Installation start

We have prepared the instrument and it's time to put the strings on your favorite electric guitar. Since the tailpieces are different, we will describe how to change them for each type separately.

Important! We wrap the strings on the pegs in the lock! In this case, they keep the system much better, not yielding to local pegs.

We tie a lock on the strings


We did not begin to paint each step, since you can easily understand how to do it from the photo and video below. But, if you still have questions, then write in the comments, we will definitely help you.

Through the body, tremolo or stop bar

On all these tailpieces, it is worth changing them in the reverse order from removal.

  1. Pass through the holes;
  2. Tension the first and sixth string (to prevent deformation of the neck);
  3. We stretch the rest according to the scheme 2-3-5-4 (So it will be easier for you, and the neck is safer);
  4. We bite off the extra length (besides the fact that it is not aesthetically beautiful, dangling strings can be dangerous for your health or the health of your loved ones.);
  5. Setting up the guitar.

Movement Floyd Rose, Edge Zero, Edge Pro and other similar

Owners of an electric guitar with such a machine can be envied and sympathized at the same time. With the possibilities that a double-sided typewriter gives, there are a lot of problems how to change the strings. But that's okay! We take hexagons, wire cutters and let the replacement begin!

  1. To begin with, unscrew the clamps from the nut of the neck with a hexagon, if any;
  2. Next, loosen the strings and bite off, although to change them, you can simply unscrew them from the bridge;
  3. Loosen the clamps on the bridge and remove the strings;
  4. We bite off the clamps on the new strings, thread them into the bridge and fix the hexagon;
  5. We stretch in the order 1-6-2-3-4-5, tie with locks;
  6. Tune the strings on the electric guitar;
  7. With the lever of the machine we make several braces, after which we adjust the electric guitar again;
  8. We set the micro-tuning on the bridge to the center;
  9. Tune the guitar again;
  10. Lochim (twist) the threshold.

Getting the perfect sound

If you use strings of the same gauge as you used, then no additional tuning is required. But if the strings rattle or are too high, it is worth trimming the neck or tightening the springs. It also needs height adjustment.

Neck adjustment

The neck is adjustable with an anchor, access to which may vary depending on the model and manufacturer. It is mainly located in the "head" of the neck and is often hidden by a decorative cover.


The neck is adjusted by tightening or loosening the anchor clockwise or counterclockwise.

The neck is considered straight if, when the string is clamped at the first and 17-19 frets (depending on the guitar), the strings lie flat and do not rattle. There is no gap at the 12th fret, but if you pull it, it will sound a little. Or you can place a metal ruler on edge and check that all the frets are evenly pressed against the edge of the ruler.

Bridge Height Adjustment

Depending on the type of bridge, the height setting will vary. Somewhere it is enough to tighten the support screws, and somewhere it is enough to raise or lower the saddles of the bridge. All this is done for a comfortable game and for adjusting the height if they rattle.


The height must not exceed 2 mm at the 12th fret (measured from the top of the fret)

Adjusting the scale

What is a mensur? This is the length of the string from nut to nut, and its center is at the 12th fret. If the center is displaced, then the accuracy of the system is lost, and if a pure “mi” should sound on the 12th fret of the first string, then with a downscale scale there may be a note “re” or “mi bimol”. Accordingly, the system floats on all other frets.

Scale adjustment is carried out by bridge saddles, which are tightened or loosened with a screwdriver or hex.

For fine tuning, you will need an electronic chromatic tuner, which will be used to adjust the scale.

  1. We connect the tuner;
  2. We rebuild in the standard system;
  3. We clamp on the 12th fret and pull it;
  4. If the tuner arrow deviates from the norm, then tighten the bolt. We look at the arrow, the indicator has improved - we turn it in the same direction, it has worsened - in the opposite direction;
  5. Repeat until you get the most accurate sound.

How to rebuild the scale, see the video below

We hope that now changing the strings will be easier for you. We tried to lay out the most important ones in one record; now it will be much easier for you to change the strings on your instrument, tune it, and enjoy the wonderful sound

Complete tuning of the guitar (Warning! There is profanity! 18+)

Every novice musician sooner or later faces the need to change the strings. In fact, it turns out that not everyone knows and fully understands this process. Therefore, we decided to combine information from online articles and videos into one material: today we will tell you how to change guitar strings correctly.

We have divided our material into two parts: replacing metal strings(for example, consider the case with an acoustic guitar, the process of changing strings on an electric guitar is based on the same principles, and it is usually less complicated) and nylon string replacement.

A short summary of why string tugging technology varies so much depending on the material of the strings themselves:

  • Nylon synthetic strings are softer and have less tension;
  • Metal strings create more tension and “swing” the guitar more: hence, including a more voluminous and powerful sound;
  • On acoustic guitars, unlike classical ones, the saddle has a reinforced construction. Hence the first rule - do not put metal strings on a classical guitar - they can simply tear out the saddle!
  • Also in acoustic guitars, due to the greater rigidity of the strings, a truss rod is used, which protects the neck from bending.

How can you tell an acoustic guitar from a classical guitar? Take a look at the image below and you will understand everything. We will not touch on the differences in the size and shape of the soundboard and neck (after all, they are different), but we will pay attention to the peg mechanics and the saddle. Metal strings are not attached to the string itself, but are "drowned" deep into the body of the guitar with the help of special pins.

Classical guitar heads usually have a plastic horizontal shaft that is wider than the shaft on acoustic guitars. In the case of acoustics, it is made of metal and is located vertically.

How to change metal strings on an acoustic guitar?

This process has several stages - we will consider each of them in detail.

  1. First, let's loosen all the pegs so that the strings hang freely over the neck and soundboard. Don't be afraid of the sudden drop in string tension that counterbalances the force of the truss rod. For those 30-60 minutes that you spend on changing the strings, the neck will not lead.

To loosen the strings, it is very convenient to use special inexpensive turntable accessories.

  1. When the string is loose enough, you can just gently pull it out of the peg.

  1. Next, you need to get the pins that fix the strings in the saddle. Most musicians do this with pliers or a screwdriver, which naturally leaves the pins scratched, scuffed, and in the worst cases, cracked.

You and I are not such barbarians, so we will use a special tool (by the way, ordinary turntables for tuning pegs almost always have a cutout specifically for dismantling the pins).

  1. When the pin is removed, we can take out the string, roll it up and dispose of it.

  1. So, your guitar is without strings. Hug and pity her Wipe it from dust, clean the neck from dirt and grease (they collect between the fret plates even for the most clean guitarists), treat the guitar elements with special tools.

  1. It's time to string new guitar strings! In general, it is recommended to do this in pairs, and not in order - it's faster and more convenient. That is, first you set the 6th and 1st string, then the 5th and 2nd, and finally the 3rd and 4th.

We insert the ball-tip of the string into the hole in the saddle and fix it with a pin, tightly fix all the elements.

  1. We first completely thread the free end of the string into the peg and then move it back a little (by 5-6 centimeters) - this margin is needed to make a couple of turns around the peg shaft.

We form 1-2 turns with the help of a peg bud or with the help of a turntable. Try to make no more than 3 turns, while one of them is better to put over the protruding "tail" of the string, and the rest - under it. So the string will be securely fixed in the tuning pegs, and many turns will not be required.

Remember: a large number of turns is an evil, which leads to the fact that the guitar is more likely to be out of tune!

Therefore, we form a small neat knot. If you look at the headstock from the front of the guitar, then 1-3 strings should be wound clockwise, and 4-6 - counterclockwise.

  1. It is not necessary to tighten the string strongly yet - it is important to achieve reliable fixation in the peg hole, as well as to form the minimum working tension. Try to wind and tension each string very smoothly, without sudden movements and without overstretching.
  2. Next, we use wire cutters (by the way, those that can be found on pliers are already suitable here) and cut off the excess length of the string from its free end to the peg. Leave an allowance of 1-2 cm.

  1. Finally, you can tune each string in pitch. Don't be discouraged if the tuning floats a little and the guitar goes out of tune - this usually lasts for about a day due to the strings "setting" into working condition and stretching a little. Just adjust it periodically. You can speed up the shrinkage process by making bends on each string.

In general, as we said, the process of changing strings takes about half an hour. Gradually, you will understand how to change the strings on your guitar in 10-15 minutes, and you will be able to do it even in emergency situations right before going on stage or before a rehearsal.

How to string nylon strings on a classical guitar?

Now it's time to learn the features of replacing nylon strings - and, believe me, there are enough of them.

  1. We dismantle the old strings. You can either use the same scheme as with metal strings, or simply loosen the string slightly and then cut it with scissors over the fingerboard. If you choose the second option, make sure you loosen the string enough so that it doesn't bounce and hurt you.

  1. We unravel the knot of the string on the saddle and take it out, we also take the other end of the string out of the peg.

  1. We remove the strings for everyone and do not forget about the care of the instrument: we wipe the soundboard, fretboard, fret plates, if necessary, use special tools.

  1. Now it's time to put on some new strings. We use the same pairwise scheme as in the case of an acoustic guitar and metal strings: first we string the 1st and 6th strings, then the 2nd and 5th, and finish with the 3rd and 4th.

But here we are waiting for the most important difference between nylon and metal strings: there is no ball on either of their ends! We tell you what to do with it.

Let's start with the thickest string. We stretch it into the hole of the string holder by 10-11 cm.

  1. Next, we form a loop: for this, we draw the tip of the string under its main part.

  1. We draw the tip around the string and thread it into the loop - we got a blank for the knot.

  1. Now we press the main part of the string to the soundboard - this must be done to avoid unraveling the knot in the future.

  1. Now we take the tip of the string and pull the main part of the string and its tip in different directions, thereby tightening the knot.

  1. We pass the second free end of the string into the hole on the peg shaft.

  1. We make a half-turn of the peg shaft so that the tip of the string is on top.

  1. We wrap the tip around the main part of the string.

  1. Next, rotate the peg and achieve the desired tension. In general, 3-4 turns are enough for nylon strings.

  1. Now about installing unwound strings (usually 1-3 strings are pure nylon with no metal wrap). We also thread them 10-11 cm.

  1. We begin to form a loop in the same way - we draw the free end of the string under the main part.

  1. We make a turn of the tip around the main part of the string - but not once, but several times. By the way, you can do the same with the strings in the winding - in general, this is a matter of taste.

  1. We tighten the knot in the same way - we pull the tip and the working part of the string in different directions. Be sure to leave a margin at the end of the string so that it does not pop out of the knot.

  1. The second end is installed in the peg in the same way as strings with a winding.

  1. That's all! It remains to pull the remaining four strings by analogy.

  1. We also carefully trim the ends of the strings to get rid of ugly “tails”.

It will take you a long time the first time (by the way, you may not succeed - for a test, try cheap sets of strings until you get used to it, for example, these).

Be prepared for the fact that the process of "shrinkage" and tightening of the strings in the case of nylon lasts longer - sometimes up to 6-7 days. To speed up the process, you can first stretch the strings a quarter to half a tone higher than necessary. However, be careful if you have a set of high tension strings - be careful not to break them. Don't forget to tune your guitar.

Now some life hacks:

  • Try to form coils closer to the middle of the shaft and the hole for the string. Avoid turns that are formed close to the headstock tree (problem areas are indicated by red arrows in the photo below) - with such a tensioning scheme, the risk of breaking the string during the next tuning increases significantly.

  • Avoid severe bending of the string after the nut in the area of ​​the peg mechanics (the problem area is highlighted in red in the photo above). To do this, form turns on the 1st and 6th string to the right of the string hole, and on the remaining strings - to the left. Schematically, we depicted this recommendation in the photo:

  • As you probably already noticed in the photo above, additional single knots are also visible at the very tip of the string in the region of the saddle. They are optional and are an additional insurance against slipping out of the string from the loop.

Some sets of nylon strings are already sold with such insurance: for this, thickenings of the string are formed at the production stage. In this case, no additional knots are required.

Note also that individual sets of nylon strings already have balls at the end, similar to metal strings. This makes it possible to change guitar strings many times faster and without additional manipulations with knots.